Siding Installation Cost Per Square Foot (2026)
What house siding really costs in 2026 — per-square-foot pricing for all four major materials, plus the tear-off and trim math.
The short answer
House siding installed costs $8–$22 per sq ft in 2026 depending on material: vinyl $8–$12, fiber cement $12–$18, metal $12–$16, and wood/cedar $15–$22. A 1,500 sq ft wall area — about 15 squares net — runs $12,000–$18,000 in vinyl or $18,000–$27,000 in fiber cement, before tear-off and extras.
Siding is the rare trade where the material choice is the bid. Labor doesn't vary nearly as much as product cost, so your real job is presenting tiers — good/better/best on one page — and letting the homeowner buy the price they want. Single-number siding bids lose to tiered bids constantly.
Full cost breakdown by material
| Material | Installed $/sq ft | 1,500 sq ft home | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vinyl | $8–$12 | $12,000–$18,000 | 20–40 yrs |
| Fiber cement | $12–$18 | $18,000–$27,000 | 30–50+ yrs |
| Engineered wood (LP SmartSide) | $10–$15 | $15,000–$22,500 | 20–30 yrs |
| Metal / aluminum | $12–$16 | $18,000–$24,000 | 40–60 yrs |
| Wood / cedar | $15–$22 | $22,500–$33,000 | 20–40 yrs |
| Stucco (for comparison) | $9–$14 | $13,500–$21,000 | 50+ yrs |
And the lines that sit under the per-foot price on a real bid:
| Line item | 2026 price range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tear-off of old siding | $1–$3 / sq ft | Always a separate line |
| Trim & accessories | ~$85 / 500 sq ft | J-channel, corners, starter strips |
| House wrap / weather barrier | $0.50–$1 / sq ft | Replace if the old barrier is shot |
| Fascia & soffit | $6–$12 / lin ft | Inspect while you're up there |
| Sheathing repair | $2–$5 / sq ft | Rot found at tear-off; allowance line |
Measure in squares, bid in tiers
The industry prices in squares (1 square = 100 sq ft). Measure each wall (length × height), add them up, subtract ~15% for windows and doors, divide by 100. A 1,800 sq ft wall area is about 15 squares net — order 17 with 10% waste (15% for gables and dormers, where every angle eats a board).
Then present three tiers on one page: good (vinyl), better (fiber cement or engineered wood), best (fiber cement premium finish or cedar). This isn't upselling theater — it doubles close rates because the homeowner chooses their price instead of accepting or rejecting yours. Anchor the middle tier as the recommendation; most buyers land there.
Check your square math in the siding calculator — it handles waste, openings, and per-tier pricing.
Material deep-dive: what to recommend where
Vinyl is the volume choice: cheap, fast to hang, zero painting, and modern insulated vinyl even adds R-value. Its weaknesses are hail (cracks), deep cold (brittle), and dark colors (fade/chalk). In hail country, quote it honestly as the budget tier and let fiber cement be the recommendation.
Fiber cement (James Hardie and peers) is the durability upsell: rot-proof, fire-resistant, holds paint 2–3× longer than wood, and shrugs off hail that destroys vinyl. Heavier and slower to install — hence the price — and it must be kept 6+ inches above grade and flashed correctly. Factory-finished ColorPlus costs more upfront and pays back in skipped repaints.
Engineered wood (LP SmartSide) splits the difference: wood look, better durability than real cedar, lighter and faster than fiber cement. A strong middle tier in most markets — learn its install details (it has specific clearance and flashing requirements) before you quote it.
Metal owns the modern aesthetic — standing-seam and flat-panel profiles on contemporary builds. Long-lived and low-maintenance, but dents show and panel replacement means color-matching. Quote it where the architecture asks for it.
Wood/cedar is the premium traditional choice with premium maintenance: staining every 3–5 years or it grays and degrades. Sell it to clients who want the look and accept the upkeep — and price the maintenance plan as a follow-on.
What moves the bid
- Stories: second-story work adds 20–30% labor — staging, material handling, slower everything.
- Architecture: gables, dormers, and bump-outs multiply cuts and trim. A simple ranch and a Victorian with the same square footage are different bids.
- Tear-off layers: one layer of old siding is standard; two layers (or asbestos-cement, which needs abatement) changes the number significantly.
- Sheathing condition: you won't know until tear-off. Carry a sheathing-repair allowance ($2–$5/sq ft for affected areas) so the change order isn't a fight.
- Trim package: basic J-channel vs. full AZEK/PVC trim boards with crown details can swing thousands. Show the options.
Pro tips from the trade
- Sell the weather barrier. Once the old siding is off, new house wrap is the easiest upsell in exterior remodeling — the client can see the old, tired barrier. It's also where the real moisture protection lives.
- Flash like your warranty depends on it. Because it does. Windows, doors, ledger boards, and penetrations get proper flashing before a single course goes up. Most siding failures are flashing failures wearing a siding costume.
- Quote the fascia and soffit. You're already on the ladders with the trim crew. It's the natural add-on and it makes the whole job look finished.
- Photograph the tear-off. Rotten sheathing, missing wrap, mouse highways — shoot it all. It justifies the repair allowance and sells the wrap upgrade.
- Mind the gaps. Fiber cement and engineered wood need specific clearances (6 in. above grade, 2 in. above decks/roofs). Installers who butt siding to the ground create the rot they'll be blamed for.
Costly mistakes to avoid
- Burying tear-off in the lump sum. “Includes removal” gets haggled; a visible $1–$3/sq ft line gets respected.
- Single-number bids. Without tiers you're either the cheapest (and thinnest) or the most expensive (and rejected). Three tiers, one page.
- Ignoring the sheathing allowance. Finding rot with no allowance means an awkward mid-job price conversation. Carry the line.
- Quoting vinyl in hail country without the caveat. The first hailstorm after install generates the “you should have told me” call. Recommend fiber cement where it hails; let vinyl be the informed budget choice.
- Forgetting the second story. Same lesson as every trade: height costs money. Bid it.
Regional pricing
Siding labor follows local construction wages; materials are national. 2026 vinyl installed ranges:
| Region | Vinyl $/sq ft installed | Fiber cement $/sq ft installed |
|---|---|---|
| Southeast / Texas | $7–$10 | $11–$15 |
| Midwest | $8–$11 | $12–$16 |
| Northeast | $10–$14 | $14–$20 |
| Mountain West | $9–$13 | $13–$18 |
| West Coast | $11–$15 | $15–$22 |
Insulated vinyl: the middle tier that sells itself
Insulated vinyl — standard vinyl profile laminated to contoured foam backing — deserves its own mention because it's the easiest step-up sale in siding. At roughly $1–$2/sq ft more than hollow vinyl, it adds R-2 to R-5 of insulation value, resists dents and hail better, and hangs straighter (the foam bridges minor wall irregularities). In energy-conscious markets and cold climates it closes at a high rate against plain vinyl — quote it as the “better” tier between hollow vinyl and fiber cement and watch where buyers land.
Color, finish, and the fade conversation
Dark siding colors absorb heat and fade faster — on vinyl, dark colors can even void warranties or cause heat distortion (most manufacturers restrict dark profiles to heat-resistant formulations). Have the fade conversation honestly: south and west elevations fade first; factory-finished fiber cement (ColorPlus and equivalents) carries 15-year finish warranties that site-painted siding can't match. For clients set on a dark color, steer toward fiber cement or engineered wood with factory finish rather than dark vinyl — the callback you avoid is worth more than the easier sale.
Insurance and storm work
In hail and wind zones, siding replacement is often an insurance job — which changes the sale. Document damage with dated photos before tear-off, help the homeowner understand ACV vs. replacement cost coverage, and be present for the adjuster meeting if they'll allow it. Insurance-paid jobs close faster and haggle less, but they also bring paperwork: supplements for rotted sheathing found at tear-off are normal and expected, so photograph everything. One caution: never promise a client their claim will be approved, and never offer to “handle the deductible” — both are illegal in many states.
How homeowners should compare bids (give them this)
Clients comparing three siding bids are really comparing three different scopes unless you teach them otherwise — and the contractor who educates wins. Tell them to check: same material tier? (vinyl vs. fiber cement quotes aren't comparable), tear-off included or separate?, house wrap included?, what trim package?, and what's the workmanship warranty? A $14,000 vinyl bid with wrap, new trim, and a 5-year workmanship warranty beats a $12,000 bid that's siding over rotten wrap with a handshake warranty. Red flags for homeowners: bids 30%+ below the pack (something's missing), “we'll handle the permit” with no permit number ever produced, and pressure to sign today for a “storm-damage discount.” When you're the contractor teaching this, you're also the contractor they trust — which is the whole point.
Lead paint (pre-1978 homes): disturbing old siding on a pre-1978 home triggers EPA RRP lead-safe rules — certified renovator on site, containment, specialized cleanup, and documentation. Compliance adds roughly $1–$2/sq ft to the job and it is not optional; fines start at five figures per day. Price it as its own line so the client sees it's federal law, not contractor markup — and never let a crew “just tear it quick” without containment.
Run the squares and tiers in the siding calculator and send all three options in one quote. If you also do gutters, check the gutter cost guide — the two trades bundle beautifully on the same house.
Siding questions, answered
Straight answers, no fluff. Then run your own numbers above.
How long does siding last?
Vinyl: 20–40 years (fades before it fails). Fiber cement: 30–50+ years. Wood/cedar: 20–40 with diligent painting/staining, far less without. Metal: 40–60 years. Engineered wood (LP SmartSide): 20–30 years with factory finish. Lifespan claims assume proper install — bad flashing kills any siding early.
Can you install new siding over old siding?
Sometimes, but usually shouldn't. Going over old siding hides rot, adds weight, voids most manufacturer warranties, and traps moisture. The only common exception is vinyl over flat, sound existing siding — and even then, tear-off lets you fix the weather barrier, which is where the real value is.
How do I know when siding needs replacing vs. repair?
Replace when: widespread warping/buckling, rot behind the siding, hail damage across multiple elevations, or fading so severe the house looks tired. Repair when: isolated storm damage, a few bad boards, or trim-only issues. If repair quotes pass 30–40% of replacement cost, replace.
Does new siding increase home value?
Yes — siding replacement consistently ranks among the highest-ROI exterior projects, recouping roughly 70–80% at resale for vinyl and fiber cement. It also sells the house faster: curb appeal is the first showing. Quote it as an investment, not an expense, and the price resistance drops.
What's the best siding for cold climates?
Fiber cement and engineered wood handle freeze-thaw best; both stay dimensionally stable where vinyl gets brittle and cracks in deep cold. Insulated vinyl is the budget cold-climate play — the foam backing adds R-value and impact resistance. Whatever you quote, the weather barrier and flashing details matter more than the siding choice.
How do you maintain fiber cement vs. vinyl siding?
Vinyl: wash yearly with a garden hose and soft brush — no painting ever, though faded vinyl can be painted with vinyl-safe paint. Fiber cement: wash yearly, recaulk joints every 5–7 years, repaint every 12–15 years (factory-finished ColorPlus stretches that). Both: keep mulch and soil 6+ inches below the bottom course.
Why is my siding bill higher than the per-square-foot price suggested?
The per-foot price covers siding + standard install. The extras — tear-off ($1–$3/sq ft), trim and accessories, house wrap, fascia/soffit work, and second-story labor — commonly add 25–40% to the base number. An itemized quote shows where it went; a lump sum just looks expensive.
Run your own numbers
Reading is good. Math is better. Punch your job into the free calculator and turn it into a client-ready quote in minutes.