Deck Replacement Cost
What a full deck replacement costs in 2026: per-square-foot pricing by material, demolition and disposal, and the re-deck shortcut that cuts the bill in half.
Replacing a deck costs $4,500–$14,000 in 2026 for a typical 300–400 sq ft deck, averaging around $7,500 installed. That's $15–$35 per square foot for pressure-treated pine, climbing to $25–$50 per square foot for composite and PVC. Demolition and disposal of the old deck adds $500–$2,000. Before you price a full replacement, read the section below on the re-deck — keeping a sound frame and replacing only the surface cuts the bill roughly in half. And if your deck just needs fixing rather than replacing, start with our deck repair cost guide.
Deck replacement cost by material
Material choice is the single biggest lever on replacement cost — more than deck size or region:
| Material | Per sq ft installed | 300 sq ft deck | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pressure-treated pine | $15–$22 | $4,500–$6,600 | 15–20 yrs |
| Cedar / redwood | $20–$30 | $6,000–$9,000 | 20–25 yrs |
| Composite | $25–$45 | $7,500–$13,500 | 25–30 yrs |
| PVC / capped polymer | $30–$50 | $9,000–$15,000 | 30+ yrs |
Composite's premium is mostly materials — the boards cost 2–3× pine — but labor is similar or slightly lower since composite installs cleanly with hidden fasteners. Over 25 years, composite often wins on total cost because it skips the $500–$1,500 re-staining cycle pine needs every 2–3 years. See deck board installation cost for the board-by-board material math.
What the total includes
A real replacement quote should itemize — or at least account for — every one of these:
| Line item | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Demolition + disposal of old deck | $500–$2,000 |
| Permits + inspections | $100–$500 |
| Footings (concrete piers) | $300–$1,200 |
| Framing (posts, beams, joists) | $1,500–$4,000 |
| Decking boards | $1,200–$6,000 |
| Railings | $800–$3,000 |
| Stairs | $200–$1,000 |
| Labor (typically 40–60% of total) | included above |
Railings are the line item homeowners underestimate most — a 300 sq ft deck can easily have 60+ linear feet of railing, and composite or cable railings run $30–$60 per linear foot installed. Get railings priced separately so the number doesn't hide inside the per-square-foot rate.
The re-deck: replacement at half price
If the frame is sound — solid posts on real footings, unrotted joists, a properly flashed ledger — you don't need a full replacement. A re-deck keeps the structure and replaces all decking boards, railings, and stairs:
| Option (300 sq ft deck) | Cost range | When it fits |
|---|---|---|
| Re-deck (boards + railings) | $2,500–$5,000 | Frame sound, surface worn |
| Full replacement, pine | $4,500–$6,600 | Frame failing or undersized |
| Full replacement, composite | $7,500–$13,500 | Frame failing; want low maintenance |
A re-deck is also the cheapest way to upgrade material: putting composite boards on an existing sound frame delivers the low-maintenance surface for thousands less than a full composite build. The frame must be verified for the added weight — composite is heavier than wood — and joist spacing may need tightening to 12 inches on center for some composite brands.
What moves the price
- Height and access. Second-story decks cost 30–50% more — scaffolding, material handling, and fall protection slow everything. Decks over steep slopes add footing complexity.
- Footings. If the old posts sat on soil or undersized pads, new code-compliant footings (below frost line, proper diameter) are non-negotiable and add $300–$1,200.
- Railing choice. Wood railings: $20–$35/linear ft. Composite: $30–$50. Cable or glass: $60–$120+. On a deck with 60 ft of railing, the spread between wood and cable is $2,400+.
- Design complexity. Multi-level decks, curves, picture-frame borders, and inlays add 20–40% in labor. Every angle is a cut, and every cut is time.
- Permits and inspections. $100–$500 and 1–4 weeks of lead time. Skipping them is not a savings — it's a resale and insurance liability.
- Demolition surprises. Old decks hide things: buried concrete, asbestos-era materials on very old builds, irrigation and electrical lines. Budget a 10% contingency.
How a deck replacement is done
- Permits and layout. Pull the permit, confirm setbacks and HOA rules, mark utilities (call 811), and lay out the footprint.
- Demolition. Strip boards, railings, and framing; pull or cut posts; haul debris. Salvageable lumber gets stacked — everything else goes to the dumpster ($500–$2,000 all-in).
- Footings. Dig or auger to below the frost line, set forms, pour concrete, and set post bases. This is the foundation — rushing it is how decks settle.
- Framing. Posts, beams, joists, and the ledger connection with proper flashing and joist hangers. Every connection gets the right connector — this is what inspections check.
- Decking and stairs. Lay boards with consistent gaps, install stairs with proper stringers and risers.
- Railings and trim. Posts, top and bottom rails, balusters, and any skirting or fascia.
- Final inspection and protection. Pass inspection, then stain/seal wood within 30–60 days.
Replacement cost by deck size
Total installed cost for full replacement, pressure-treated pine vs. composite, including demolition:
| Deck size | Pine replacement | Composite replacement |
|---|---|---|
| 120 sq ft (10×12) | $2,500–$4,500 | $4,000–$7,000 |
| 192 sq ft (12×16) | $3,500–$6,000 | $5,500–$9,500 |
| 320 sq ft (16×20) | $5,500–$9,000 | $9,000–$15,000 |
| 400 sq ft (20×20) | $6,500–$11,000 | $11,000–$18,000 |
Small decks carry a premium per square foot — permits, demolition minimums, and mobilization don't scale down. If your deck is under 150 sq ft, expect the high end of the per-square-foot range. Conversely, large simple rectangles are the cheapest per square foot in deck work: long straight runs, minimal cutting, fast production.
Timing and money: when to replace
- Season. Late fall and winter are the cheapest time to book — contractors discount 10–15% to keep crews busy. Spring is peak season and peak pricing. The deck doesn't care when it's built; your wallet does.
- Partial now, full later? Don't. A $2,000 structural patch on a deck you'll replace in two years is the worst of both worlds. If replacement is likely within 3 years, do the minimum safety work and save for the real job.
- Financing. Most contractors offer or accept financing on jobs over $5,000. A 12-month same-as-cash offer beats a credit card; compare the contractor's financing fee against a HELOC if the job tops $10,000.
- Insurance. Standard homeowners policies don't cover wear-and-tear replacement — but they may cover sudden damage (fallen tree, storm). If storm damage contributed, file before you sign a contract; an adjuster's number changes the math.
Costly mistakes to avoid
- Replacing the surface on a failing frame. The #1 expensive mistake. A $5,000 re-deck on a frame with 3 years left is money burned — inspect the structure first, always.
- Reusing old footings blindly. Old pads are often undersized, off-level, or above the frost line. Verify each one or pour new.
- Choosing material on price alone. Pine is cheapest to install and most expensive to own. Run the 25-year math — stain cycles, board replacements — before deciding.
- Forgetting the railing budget. Railings can be 15–25% of the total. Price them as a separate line so they don't ambush the final number.
- No contingency. Demolition reveals surprises on old decks. Hold 10% back from the day-one budget.
- Skipping the permit. Unpermitted decks fail home inspections at resale, and insurers can deny claims on unpermitted structures. The $100–$500 permit is the cheapest insurance on the job.
Run the board, fastener, and concrete math in the deck & fence calculator, then build the client-ready quote. Contractors: lead with the re-deck option when the frame qualifies — the honest recommendation wins the job, and the margin on a re-deck is some of the best in exterior work. Pricing the whole job from your side? See our deck building bidding guide.
Deck replacement questions, answered
Straight answers, no fluff. Then run your own numbers above.
How much does it cost to replace a deck?
Full deck replacement costs $4,500–$14,000 in 2026 for a typical 300–400 sq ft deck, averaging around $7,500. Pressure-treated pine lands at the low end, composite and PVC at the high end. Demolition and disposal of the old deck adds $500–$2,000 on top.
What is the average cost of deck replacement per square foot?
Deck replacement averages $15–$35 per square foot installed. Pressure-treated pine runs $15–$22/sq ft, cedar $20–$30/sq ft, composite $25–$45/sq ft, and PVC $30–$50/sq ft. These ranges include framing, boards, railings, and labor on a straightforward ground-level build.
Is it cheaper to re-deck or replace the whole deck?
Re-decking — keeping the existing frame and replacing all surface boards and railings — costs $2,500–$5,000 for a 300 sq ft deck, roughly half of full replacement. It's the best value when the structure is sound. Full replacement is required when posts, joists, or footings are failing.
How long does it take to replace a deck?
A standard 300–400 sq ft deck replacement takes 1–2 weeks: 1–3 days for demolition and disposal, 3–5 days for framing, and 3–5 days for decking, railings, and stairs. Permits add 1–4 weeks before work starts depending on your city. Complex designs, second stories, or bad weather extend the timeline.
Can I keep my existing deck frame and just replace the boards?
Yes, if the frame passes inspection — posts, joists, beams, and ledger all sound, with proper footings and flashing. A contractor should probe the frame and check for bounce before quoting a re-deck. If the frame is more than 20 years old or shows rot in multiple members, full replacement is the honest recommendation.
Does replacing a deck increase home value?
A new wood deck returns roughly 50–60% of its cost at resale, and composite slightly less on paper — but those figures understate the real value. An aging, unsafe deck is a negotiation weapon for buyers; a new deck removes the objection entirely and photographs dramatically better. The value is in removing a negative as much as adding a positive.
Run your own numbers
Reading is good. Math is better. Punch your job into the free calculator and turn it into a client-ready quote in minutes.